Frozen & Burst Pipe Repair in Portland, ME

Signs of a frozen or burst pipe

• little or no water from one faucet while others work
• frost on an exposed pipe, or a pipe that's bulging
• a toilet that won't refill on a cold morning
• water stains, dripping or a wet basement ceiling after a cold snap
• the sound of running water when nothing is on

For other problems, see our overview of plumbing services in Portland, ME.

Which pipes freeze in Portland homes

The American Red Cross lists the most likely candidates: outdoor hose bibs and sprinkler lines; pipes in basements, crawl spaces, attics, garages and kitchen cabinets; and pipes on exterior walls with little or no insulation. Consumer Reports adds that the biggest risk is uninsulated pipe running through an uninsulated space.

Portland's older housing makes this a common problem. Many homes in the West End, on Munjoy Hill and in Parkside were built long before modern insulation, and plumbing added or rerouted over the decades can end up in cold corners. Statewide, 23.4% of homes were built before 1940, compared with 12% nationally.

How urgent is it?

How to thaw a frozen pipe safely

1. Open the faucet

   Turn on the tap the pipe feeds so melting ice and water have somewhere to go.

2. Apply gentle heat

   Use a hair dryer, a heating pad, a space heater kept a safe distance away or towels soaked in hot water, starting closest to the faucet.

3. Keep going until pressure returns

   Then check every other faucet in the house, since more than one pipe may have frozen.

4. Never use a flame

   No blowtorch, kerosene or propane heater, charcoal stove or other open flame. They can damage pipes and start a fire.

5. Call if you can't reach it

   If the frozen section is inside a wall or ceiling, or you can't find it, call a licensed plumber.

Our Portland frozen pipe guide covers prevention in more detail.

What happens during a frozen or burst pipe repair

1. Locate the freeze or break

   The plumber traces the cold run, often to an exterior wall, crawl space or unheated room.

2. Thaw and inspect

   Once water flows, every exposed section is checked for splits, which don't always show until there's pressure behind them.

3. Replace the damaged section

   Cut out the split pipe and replace it, then pressure test the line.

4. Fix the cause

   Insulation, pipe sleeves, heat cable or rerouting the line to a warmer path so it doesn't happen again next January.

What affects the cost

• Where the pipe is: open basement framing is quick; a finished wall or ceiling means opening it up.
• How many breaks: a deep freeze can split more than one section.
• Pipe material: copper, PEX and older galvanized steel are repaired differently.
• Timing: night and weekend calls during a cold snap often cost more.
• Prevention work: insulating or rerouting adds to the bill but prevents a repeat.

Drywall and flooring repair are usually separate. See the plumbing cost guide.

Prevent the next freeze

• Shut off the supply to outdoor hose bibs in fall, then open the outdoor faucets to drain them, as the Red Cross advises.
• Insulate pipes in unheated spaces with pipe sleeves, heat tape or heat cable.
• Keep garage doors closed if water lines run through the garage.
• Open sink cabinet doors on exterior walls during cold snaps.
• Let faucets fed by exposed pipes drip on the coldest nights.
• If you leave home, keep the thermostat at 55°F or higher. For longer trips, see protecting a vacant home in winter.

Questions to ask before you hire

• Will you find out why the pipe froze, not just fix the split?
• Can the line be rerouted or insulated so it doesn't freeze again?
• Will you pressure test the repaired section?
• Is opening and patching drywall included, or separate?
• What warranty comes with the repair?

What to have ready when you call